Queen Charlotte Sound / Tōtaranui
The Marlborough Sounds is an incredible region at the top of the South Island with many options for multi-day paddle journeys. Queen Charlotte Sound is relatively busy compared with others, but that doesn't mean you can't find isolated spots and amazing views! The journey on this page is one suggestion for a four day trip, but there are many options to suit different lengths of day. Check out the DOC website to see all the campgrounds.
Quick Facts
Start / Finish - Waikawa Bay Wharf, Port Underwood Road, 7281
Distance - 15km + 16km + 24km + 19km = 74km
Time - 4 Days
Difficulty - Moderate
Tides - Up to 3kts through the Tory Channel (Day 3 and 4), otherwise minimal affect
Cautions - Big crossings throughout the trip can be hazardous, the inter islander ferry operates on this route
Remember - there is very limited opportunity to get fresh drinking water and the DOC grounds water supply can often be empty in the Summer months - carry enough fresh water for your trip
Key Planning Information
Wind
Day 1 - 15km - Waikawa to Ratimera Bay Campsite
This trip starts and finishes in Waikawa, a few kilometers up the road from Picton. Park at the wharf car park, there is a gravel area where you can leave your car. Start paddling by crossing to the far side of Waikawa bay and following the shoreline to the point. You are quickly into the first big crossing of the trip to get to the Northern side of Queen Charlotte Sound. Great care should be exercised where you cross the Picton-Wellington ferry route. These boats travel reasonably fast and may not be able to stop or move around you. Ensure your route is clear before starting the crossing. Aim for Allports Island to start with, although there is no easy landing here you will at least get some shelter from the wind before continuing onto Kumutoto Point. Turn East here and follow the shoreline around.
There are minimal places where you can get off onto the land on this section of the trip. In the corner of Kaipapa Bay you'll find what looks like an abandoned batch with a jetty. This is a good spot for a break!
After lunch, continue following the shoreline. From here on in you'll be treated to spectacular views of native bush and be able to hear an abundance of birdsong. Your next big crossing is across Blackwood Bay. You can extend the trip by going into the bay, or keep your day to 15km by crossing straight across the top of the bay. If you have a Northerly wind you may find the crossing easier to head up into Blackwood Bay, but bear in mind that if the wind is building you'll be finishing the day into wind - make sure you keep some energy in reserve!
After Blackwood Bay you'll paddle along another headland and follow it round in Ruakaka Bay. Follow the shoreline here to get to the stunning Ratimera Bay Campsite, right on the waters edge.
Day 2 - 16km - Ratimera Bay Campsite to Blumine Island
Start the second day by crossing over to the Eastern Side of Ruakaka Bay, aiming your way down to West Head. Keep paddling around the short headland here and into Bay of Many Coves. A short detour into the bay is well worth it here. Just over 2km from Bull Head is Arthurs Bay, where the Bay of Many Coves Resort is found. Stop here for great coffee and your only opportunity to use a flushing toilet during the trip! Sit on the deck with your coffee and drink in the views.
Once you're back on the water, decide if you want to explore more coves, or continue on towards Blumine Island. Aim directly for Snake Point to keep the day to 16km. Along the shoreline from Snake Point you'll find Spencer Bay, which has some small beaches that afford a good spot for lunch. Bear in mind that the wash from boats can give some big waves - keep your hatches closed if you don't want a full kayak!
After lunch you have the big crossing of the day, from Kurakura Point to Blumine Island. In low winds you'll be able to aim directly across. In a strong Northerly, consider working your way up the Western Bays to Edgecombe Point and then crossing back down with the wind.
It's worth aiming to arrive early on Blumine Island so that you have time for the walk to the historic gun emplacements. This is an easy 5km round walk and can be done in trainers. The track traverses the cliffs North from the campground and takes you to the Second World War gun emplacements which defended Queen Charlotte Sound and the (never used) secure moring for the US Navy. Keep your eyes peeled on the walk for the endangered Saddleback and the Weta hotels!
Day 3 - 24km - Blumine Island to Ngaruru Bay Campsite
Today starts with a paddle around the top of the island. Although you can shorten the day by heading directly towards Ngaruru Bay, the far side of Blumine Island is stunning and well worth the extra distance! As you paddle around the top of the island the sound opens out with wide views of Queen Charlotte Sound and out to the Cook Straight. Keep your eyes peeled here for Dolphins! Keep following the island around until you get to Patten Passage, the narrow gap between Blumine Island and Arapaoa Island.
As you paddle along Arapaoa Island there are many bays, many with small beaches where you can stop for lunch. Soon you'll turn the corner into Tory Channel. The views change here to feel much more closed in, with the narrowist point at less then 1km wide. The tide runs through this section of the Tory Channel at up to 3knots on springs. Avoid the peak of flood tide on this day. The ferrys sail down the Southern side of the channel, so paddling to the North is best.
Soon you'll come to Ngaruru Bay, a small DOC campground with composting toilet. This is a sheltered bay which you can expect to share with moored boats.
Day 4 - 19km - Ngaruru Bay Campsite to Waikawa
The last day is a steady paddle back to Waikawa. Ideally, you will time this day to start near low tide. This will mean you're pushed all the way home! If this isn't possible, avoid paddling the peak of the ebb tide through the Tory Channel.
Your main danger today is that you need to cross back over the Inter Islander ferry route. The safest place to do this is early after you leave camp, where you can see for several kilometres in either direction. The downside is that you'll then be more affected by passing wash of the ferrys, and the route is slightly longer. You can also stay on the Northern side and cross between Ruaomoko Point and Dieffenbach Point. You should be confident that you can paddle quickly across (e.g. in a sea kayak, not a SUP). Be prepared to turn back if you're part way across and a ferry comes into view!
After Diffenbach Point you can enjoy the last 10km of the trip, with the views changing again. The native bush gives way to pine plantations, the batches look more lived in and you'll be around more day craft.
Alternatives: You could continue on from Blumine Island to Ship Cove or Endeavour Inlet, where it is possible to organise a pick up from a water taxi, back to Picton or Waikawa.
